WoodGrain, Walnut, Garage P1
Fiberglass & Steel Doors
Lighten Your Cabinets P3
SINGER, DESK, MANTLE.
Marble & Faux Granite P-5
White Cabinets,Solid Doors
Antique Car Parts, Gun Stocks
BEAMS, Staircases, Page 8
Painted Cabinets Pg 9
Woodwork & Trim, Page 10
More Restored Cabinets
Birch Door Oaked, JoeMoz P12
Sun Damage & Restored
More Restoration, ROT
OAK GRAIN on Birch Cabinets.
GARAGE DOORS & More
Formica (R) CABINETS, Page 17
What To Expect, Page18

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What To Expect

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The Wood-Grain system covers new or old surfaces. It goes over  wood, steel, fiberglass, plaster, sheetrock or Formica (R) cabinets, even SOME wall tile indoors.  But, I don't do countertops.
 
I use ALL acrylic {water based, construction grade} materials. They are safe.  The V.O.C. is good.  They dry fast.  MOST work is done by hand with brush or roller (may show brush strokes).
 
Cabinet Hardware: You can buy NEW if you want to replace the old hardware. There MAY BE a charge to drill & fill screw holes for new. I can gold or Bronze tone your existing hardware for less!
 
Making a surface lighter - I can use the Faux method and toners to get a shade or 2 lighter. Can darken to most any level.
 
I'll do a FREE Sample for you before we start.
I'll write everything down for you and give you a contract.  I'll give you a price which includes materials and labor.   I don't provide material receipts. I usually ask for a deposit a couple days before I start.  We can add additional work (work added after we sign the contract) at the END - such as : drilling extra holes for new hardware and filling old holes or changing colors after I start, adding a door or cabinet - etc.
 
DOORS:
Call me for a FREE estimate.
I have a standard rate card I'll give you.
 
I do doors all year.   We would schedule the outsides in summer without a storm door.  I do insides in winter and out if behind a storm door.
 
"An OAK Finish for Your Steel Door"TM  and fiberglass door or painted wood doors.  It looks like OAK wood in the color of your choice.
 
The finish will be dry or drying when I leave BUT I may ask you to allow door to stay ajar {away from weather strip} for an hour.
 
GARAGE DOORS: I will move them up and down as I work and I ask that you allow them to stay fully up and move them every hour to dry, especially if they are painted a solid color.
 
Select a color.  I have color charts OR you may have a color that you'd like to match - some trim, a floor, a piece of furniture or even a picture.
 
The finish can be applied to a new door or a door that has been painted before.
 
It's a multi step process. They are all acrylic latex products.  They dry quickly -  I flash them off as I work (with a hair dryer).
 
Note: At first (especially repairs) it won't look good. The colors won't match, etc. (that's NORMAL).
 
I use a multi-step faux woodgrain method for many applications and cosmetic repairs.
 
I do 99.9% of the doors already in place.  I don't remove them.
 
I'll do new doors after they're installed.
 
A little light sanding and prep takes place at 1st. Not a heavy sanding - no dust flying around unless it's a re-finshing job (strip).
 
I usually remove the door hardware and replace it.
 
*It's a durable finish.  Inside it will last forever barring a scratch.  It drys very hard but can be scratched - like a car.
 
* Inside you can use darker colors and OUTSIDE facing north, northwest and if the door is not getting sun.
 
*Outside, if your door is in the sun - I suggest to go light in color! 
 
The light colors hold up better in the sun, plus I will give you some tips to keep your door looking good.  The sun is a predator to ANY outside finish!
 
REPAIRS sometimes require more sanding.  I protect the surrounding areas with drop cloths.  I will remove the bad material. Fill with fiberglass and use the faux Restoration method over the bad. I usually don't strip unless you want. 
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ADD FOR any REPAIRS plus the wood-graining or painting. The suface WILL be un-even where the repairs are made.
--------------  Most projects are "multi step" especially repairs & restoration.  With many restoration projects I use the faux wood-grain process with all acrylic latex materials and fillers to build the damaged surface.
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I set up and put everything away every day.  I may ask to store a few items overnight if you have a space.
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CABINETS - cost upon estimate:  Depending - sometimes I'll do all on site. Or I'll take the doors & hardware with me and of course, do the stiles, rails & sides on site.
 
I can - "Goldtone" your hinges and handles.  An 18-24 door kitchen Avg.= $120 to $150.  I'll show you a sample!
 
For a kitchen with 16 to 20 doors*. {more doors - costs a little more}. They can be cleaned, touched up $400-$700.  Restored or painted a solid color average = $600 to $1,000.  Includes outsides doors, stiles, rails, drawer fronts.  *ADD for insides of doors or inside cabinets.
 
Full Woodgraining runs about $1,200 to $1,800 depending on the size of the kitchen.  They could be any color and would look like OAK CABINETS.
 
PARTIALLY WOOD-GRAINED:
A birch or cherry kitchen for example, can be cosmetically repaired (dings, fingernail gouges, sticky spots, dark spots, etc.), then the OAK grain is applied and protective clear coats put on for a WHOLE NEW LOOK!
 
 
 

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Birch & Luan doors can be made to look like OAK doors for $95 per side, includes clear coats!   Repairs and holes are extra.  I do 1 side or many. ADD for any repairs.
 
SPOT REPAIRS:
I repair holes in passage doors = $50, $75 per hole - average.   I then blend the colors back.  The colors are pretty close.  The repair will show.....sometimes the hole repair isn't quite perfectly level.  I do the hole and feather the repair out into the door.
 

I don't do these items anymore - below:  
- Iron Porch Railings.
- Bilco doors.


   I use a hair dryer to flash off for the next coat.

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Call with any questions: 570-815-8411, Bob Bachman.

Thanks for looking!
 
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